Information Plastic Materials

ABS PLATE: ABS is easily machined and may be bored, turned, drilled, milled, sawed, die-cut, routed and sheared using high-speed carbide-tipped tools. It can also be filed, sanded, ground, buffed and polished.

ABS SHEET: ABS combines toughness and rigidity with chemical, stress-cracking,
and creep resistance. Extruded ABS sheet can be easily thermoformed
with excellent mold detail with most conventional equipment.

APPLICATIONS: Machine parts and rollers, automotive interior and exterior trim. Lab equipment, luggage, office accessories.

ACETAL (Delrin®): Acetal is a crystalline thermoplastic polymer with a high melting point. It offers a high modulus of elasticity combined with great strength, stiffness and resistance to abrasion. Moisture has little to no effect on acetal resin, and because of this, the dimensional stability of close tolerance fabricated items is excellent. It is suitable for mechanical parts or electrical insulators that require structural strength at above normal temperatures.

PROPERTIES: High modules of elasticity. High strength and stiffness. Low coefficient of friction. Easily fabricated with hand tools and automatic production machinery. Good abrasion and impact
resistance. Low moisture absorption. Excellent machineability. Natural lubricity. Resistant to gasoline, solvents, and other neutral chemicals. Useful in air temperatures of -60° to +320°.

GRADES: Delrin 100® series: High viscosity grade of resin for production of rod, slab and tubing to be machined.
Delrin 500® series: General purpose resin used in production of rod and slab.
Delrin 570® series: Resin containing glass fibers. Used where high stiffness, creep resistance and better dimensional stability are required.
Delrin AF®: Resin containing TEFLON® fibers. Used where low coefficient of friction, high resistance to abrasion and wear are required.

Applications: Delrin®'s overall combination of physical, tribological and environmental properties make it ideal for many industrial wear and mechanical applications such as: Pump and Valve components, Gears, Bearings, Bushings, Rollers, Fittings and Electrical insulator parts.

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION and SPECIFICATION Acetal Homopolymer, Natural ASTM D-4181 POM111Acetal Homopolymer, Black ASTM D-4181 POM111 w/Black Acetal Homopolymer, 20% Glass-filled (570)ASTM D-4181 POM110G20A39(4200)170Acetal Homopolymer, AF Blend ASTM D-4181 POM110L13A00000

AGENCY APPROVALS OR LISTING : FDA, NSF, USDA
BASE RESINS TRADE NAMES : Delrin®

Acrylic: Acrylic sheet is a material with unique physical properties and performance characteristics. It weighs half as much as the finest optical glass, yet is equal to it in clarity and is up to 17 times more impact resistant. It can be worked as easily as wood, can be formed into endless, interesting and functional shapes, is resistant to chemicals and industrial fumes, and remains stable under sustained exposure to the elements. Acrylic sheet is made in over 250 colors, in thicknesses from .030" to 4.25' and can transmit ultraviolet light or filter it out, as required. Aircraft manufacturers use Acrylic sheet in jets and helicopters. Bullet-resisting Acrylic sheet helps solve security problems for banks and stores. Because of its light and energy transmission properties architects find Acrylic ideal for skylights, sun screens, fascia panels and dome structures. Acrylic material is a favorite medium of furniture designers and sculptors. Retailers show off their merchandise in displays made from Acrylic sheet, while signs made from Acrylic sheet light up the nation. Its impact resistance makes Acrylic sheet an outstanding glazing material. It is used in home furnishings, chair mats, lighting fixtures, safety equipment, decorating panels, office partitions and appliances of all kinds. And it's a favorite material of the do-it-yourself hobbyist.

WEATHERABILITY: Acrylic sheet has exceptional weathering characteristics. Clear sheet will not yellow even after long years of exposure to sunlight, and colors won't fade.

EXPANSION AND CONTRACTION: Like most plastics, Acrylic sheet responds to temperature changes by expanding or contracting at a far greater rate than glass When using Acrylic sheet for outdoor glazing, cut the sheet approximately 1/16" per running foot shorter than the frame size.

FLEXIBILITY: Acrylic sheet is much more flexible than glass or many other building materials. When using large sheets for windows, it is important that rabbets or channels be deep enough to provide support against high winds.

CHEMICAL RESISTANCE: Acrylic sheet has excellent resistance to attack by many chemicals. It is affected, in varying degrees, by benzene, toluene, carbon tetrachloride, ethyl and methyl alcohol, lacquer thinners, ethers, ketones and esters.

ELECTRICAL PROPERTIES: Acrylic sheet is an excellent insulator. Its surface resistivity is higher than that of most plastics. Continuous outdoor exposure has little effect on its electrical properties.

LIGHT TRANSMISSION: Colorless Acrylic sheet has a light transmittance of 92%. It is clearer than window glass and will not turn yellow. Translucent white Acrylic acrylic sheet diffuses light smoothly and evenly, so it's excellent for all types of lighting fixtures and signs. Acrylic sheet is also available in a large variety of transparent and translucent colors.

FIRE PRECAUTIONS: All acrylic sheet is combustible. Self-ignition temperature range is 830-860"F. Protect it from flames and high heat.

CLEANING: Wash Acrylic sheet with a mild soap or detergent and plenty of lukewarm water. Use a clean soft cloth, applying only light pressure. Rinse with clear water and dry by blotting with a damp cloth or chamois. Grease, oil or tar may be removed with a good grade of hexane, aliphatic naphtha, or kerosene. These solvents may be obtained at a paint or hardware store and should be used in accordance with manufacturers' recommendations. Any oily film left behind by solvents should be removed immediately by washing.
DO NOT USE: Window cleaning sprays, kitchen scouring compounds, or solvents such as acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride or lacquer thinner. Static electricity can attract dust to Acrylic sheet. To reduce it, use an anti-static cleaner or consider using an inexpensive anti-static gun, such as those commonly sold in Audio stores for removing static from phonograph records.

MASKING: Acrylic sheet comes covered on both sides with a low-tack masking paper. It is also available with a thick-polyethylene film with a low-tack adhesive (Polymask) or with a thin polyethylene film without adhesive (unmasked). The masking protects the sheet from scratching during storage and handling. Be sure to leave the masking in place during all phases of fabrication and installation. Except for intricate detail work, you should remove the masking only when project is completed. You can remove the masking paper with a cardboard tube -- rolling the paper around it. All papermasked Acrylic sheet should be kept away from heat, sunlight and water. This is not true of polymask sheet. Masking should be removed soon after installation.

Do's and Don'ts:
Do's:
* Keep meshing on as long as possible through fabrication operations.
* Always wear safety glasses when working with power tools.
* Use metal-cutting saw blades and drills which are ground for acrylic sheet.
* Make certain all your tools are sharp.
* Use water or an appropriate drilling oil as a coolant when cutting sheets over 1/8" thick or drilling sheets over 3/16" thick.
* Use the proper thickness for glazing blanks.
* Allow 1/16" per linear foot for expansion in glazing applications.
* Wet the surface of Acrylic sheet before cleaning.

Don'ts:
* Don't store Acrylic sheet near radiators or steam pipes or in direct sunlight.
* Don't remove the masking until all work is finished.
* Don't install large sheet with bolts. Frame them.
* Don't mark with a punch marker.
* Don't use saw blades having side-set teeth. Saw teeth ideally should be ground with zero degree rake and be of uniform height and shape.
* Don't bring the material in direct contact with heaters.
* Don't subject sheet to high surface temperatures during polishing.
* Don't use glass-cleaning sprays, scouring compounds or solvents like acetone, gasoline, benzene, carbon tetrachloride, or lacquer thinner on acrylic sheet.
* Don't heat Acrylic sheet in a kitchen oven.
* In hot weather, don't store masked acrylic sheet in direct sunlight.

CUTTING: Acrylic sheet can be cut in many ways with hand tools or power tools. The method you choose will likely depend on the tools available to you. But all tools cannot be used in all cases. Your choice of tool and technique should also be based on the thickness of the sheet, and the shape of the particular cut. This section, though not comprehensive, gives some guidelines for choosing the right method and getting the best results with Acrylic sheet.

CUTTING WITH KNIFE OR SCRIBE: Acrylic sheet up to 3/16" thick may be cut by a method similar to that used for cutting window glass. Use a scribe of some kind -- a scribing knife, a metal scribe, an awl, or even a sturdy craft knife -- to score the sheet. Draw the scriber several times (7 or 8 times for a 3/16") thick piece) along a straight edge held firmly in place. It is best not to remove the protective masking. Make the cuts carefully using firm, even pressure. For best results make each stroke cleanly off the edge of the sheet. Then, clamp the Acrylic sheet or hold it rigidly under a straight edge with the scribe mark facing up and hanging just over the edge of a table. Protect your hands with a cloth, and apply a sharp downward pressure to the top side of the sheet. It will break along the scratch. Scrape the edges to smooth any sharp corners. This method is not recommended for long breaks or thick material.

CUTTING WITH POWER SAWS: Blades used to cut Acrylic sheet should be sharp, and free from nicks and burrs. Special blades for cutting acrylics are available for most types of saws. Otherwise, use blades designed for cutting metals (especially aluminum or copper); they work well. Teeth should be fine, of the same height, evenly spaced, and with little or no set.
Table saws and circular handsaws: Use hollow ground, high-speed blades with no set, and at least 5 teeth per inch, such as those used to cut copper and aluminum. If you intend to do extensive cutting, carbide tipped blades, although more expensive, will last longer without sharpening (a triple chip type tooth design is recommended). They also tend to give a cleaner cut in acrylic sheet. Set the blade to project approximately 1/8" above the surface of the sheet being cut. This will reduce edge chipping. When cutting with a hand-held circular saw, clamp the sheet securely to the work surface to minimize vibration. A wood block 1" x 3" clamped on top of the sheet spreads the clamping force and can act as a guide for the saw.
No matter which type of saw you use, the sheet must be held firmly and fed slowly and smoothly to prevent chipping. Lubricating the blade with beeswax or a bar of soap will help keep the masking adhesive from gumming up the blade. Be sure the saw is up to full speed before beginning to cut. Water-cooling the blade is suggested for thicknesses over 1/4" especially when edge cementing will be performed.
Saber saws: Use blades which have a slight set, such as the blades recommended for cutting metals or other plastics. Be sure they are sharp. The blades you use for cutting acrylic should never be used to cut other materials. Set them aside. Use them only for acrylic sheet.
High speed is best for cutting Acrylic sheet with a saber saw. Always be sure the saw is at full speed before beginning to cut. Press the sawshoe firmly against the material, and don't feed too fast. Water cooling is suggested for cutting acrylic sheet over 1/4" thick.
Band saws or jig saws: Band saws and jig saws are excellent tools for cutting acrylic sheet. But because of their relatively thin blades they are not recommended for cutting acrylic sheet over 1/4" thick. Use blades with a slight set and about 10 teeth per inch. Feed acrylic sheet at a rate 10 times faster than you would feed steel. Blades may break easily in acrylic, so operate accordingly.

CUTTING WITH HAND SAWS: Almost any type of hand saw may be used to cut Acrylic sheet. And while good results are possible with hand saws, the techniques involved are considerably more difficult than with power saws. Practice on scrap material before attempting to make critical cuts. With any hand saw, it is most important that the blades be kept sharp. For best results, the teeth should be of uniform size and shape, and have very little set. Every effort should be made to prevent vibration or stress while cutting. Flexing at the point of the cut or binding of the saw blade may cause the acrylic to crack. Clamp the material securely. Keep the saw straight when cutting, and apply very little pressure. Let the blade do the work. With practice and proper care, you can get good results.
Straight Saws: Straight saws or crosscut saws may be used for long, straight cuts on Acrylic sheet of almost any thickness. The saw should have a hollow-ground blade with very little set and at least 10 teeth per inch. Make certain the material is firmly clamped and supported. Hold the saw at an angle of about 45° from vertical, and be sure to keep it straight.
Coping Saws: Coping saws or scroll saws are good for shorter cuts, curved cuts, or even intricate designs. Use very narrow blades with only a slight set.
Hacksaws or Keyhole Saws: These hand saws for cutting metal may also be used for short cuts in Acrylic sheet. Choose a blade with approximately 18 teeth per inch. Use a smooth, even stroke. Apply very little pressure.

ROUTING AND SHAPING: Acrylic sheet can be machined with standard woodworking routers in much the same way as wood. You'll find many uses for portable hand routers and small table routers. Use them to cut patterns into edges, or larger holes out of pieces of Acrylic sheet.
For best results, use single-fluted bits for inside circle routing and double-fluted bits for edge routing.
Routers are designed to operate at high speeds: 10,000 to 20,000 rpm is recommended for Acrylic sheet. And because routing speeds are so high, vibration must be scrupulously avoided. Even small vibrations can cause crazing and fractures in acrylic sheet during routing.

TURNING: Turning is the only practical way to produce most round cross-sectioned parts such as knobs, furniture legs, and vases. Acrylic sheet can be turned on almost any type lathe. Bits designed especially for cutting acrylic are available. But most high-speed tool bits with a zero-degree, or slightly negative rake will work very well. It is essential that rake be maintained at 0 to -4° for satisfactory results. Clearance angles should be from 5 to 10°. Use a turning speed approximately 10 times faster than for wood. You should be able to get a continuous chip from the Acrylic sheet.

DRILLING: Acrylic sheet may be drilled by any kind of hand or power drill. A stationary drill press is the preferred tool because it gives better control and greater accuracy. But a drill press won't be applicable in all instances, and with a little care, proper technique, and a correctly-ground drill bit, you can get good results with an ordinary hand drill.
For best results use drills designed specifically for acrylics. Regular twist drills can be used, but the cutting edges must be modified to prevent the blade from grabbing and fracturing the plastic. Acrylic sheet is relatively soft. Your drill should have an edge that cuts with a scraping action. To obtain this, you can modify your drill bit by grinding small "flats" onto both cutting edges with a medium or fine-grit grinding wheel, or a pocket stone. The flats can be parallel to the length of the drill and about 1/32" wide. Tip angle should be between 60 and 90°. For the best possible finish inside the hole, use a drill with smooth, polished, slow-spiral flutes which will clear the hole of all shavings without marring or burning the walls. If the drill is correctly sharpened and operated at proper speed, two continuous spiral chips or ribbons will emerge from the hole. When drilling a hole three times deeper than the diameter of the drill, a lubricant or coolant should be used. This will help remove chips, dissipate heat, and improve the finish of the hole. Rough, irregular, or fuzzy holes can lead to cracking and breaking months after the piece has been completed.

FINISHING: Scraping: It is necessary to smooth and square the edge of the sheet which has been cut. This is because cutting by any technique will leave a rough edge that is usually unsuitable either as a finished edge or to join to another piece of acrylic. You can do this by a number of different techniques, depending on the finish desired. The first step, and perhaps easiest technique, is scraping. A scraper can be almost any piece of metal with a sharp, flat edge. The back of a hacksaw blade, the back of a knife blade, or a tool steel blank are ideal. Whatever tool you use must have a sharp, square edge.

FILING: It is easy to file Acrylic sheet to a surface ready for final polishing. The filing, however, must be done correctly and carefully. Almost any commercial file can be used. But the quality of the finish will depend on your choice of file coarseness. A 10 to 12 inch smooth-cut file if recommended for filing edges and removing tool marks. Other files -- half round, rat tail, triangular files, and even small jewelers' files -- are good for smoothing insides of holes, cutting grooves and notches, or finishing detail. File in only one direction. Keep the teeth flat on the surface of the Acrylic sheet, but let the file slide at an angle to prevent the teeth from cutting unwanted grooves in your work. Always keep your files clean and sharp. Wire brush them often to prevent the teeth from filling up. And don't use your acrylic files for working metal or other materials that might dull the teeth. For small work, try clamping the file in a vise and rubbing your work across the file.

SANDING: Before Acrylic sheet is ready to be polished, it should be sanded to a smooth, satiny finish. As with filing, the quality of the final finish will depend on the grades of sandpaper used. The finer the final grit, the smoother the finish. It will usually take at least three steps to get a good finish. If there are scratches deep enough to require it, start with coarse grit No. 60 sandpaper. Use it dry. When the original scratches are completely removed, sand with a medium grit paper - 220 is good - to remove the scratches from the coarse paper. Use the medium grit paper dry as well. Finally, sand to a satiny finish with a fine grit, wet-or-dry No. 400 paper. Fine grit paper should always be used wet to keep the paper from clogging and obtain a smoother finish. Rinse the paper frequently. Grits as fine as 600 may be used. Always wipe your work clean when changing to a finer grit. Be sure all deep scratches have been removed .

Sanding by Hand: Hand sanding Acrylic sheet is very much like hand sanding wood. Most of the same techniques apply. But sanding acrylic must be done with far greater care. You should always use a wooden or rubber sanding block. When removing scratches, be sure to sand an area that is slightly larger than the scratch. This will help prevent low spots. Sand with a circular motion. Use light pressure and plenty of water with wet-or-dry papers. As you get the feel of working with Acrylic sheet, your own observations and experience will be your best guide to determining how coarse a grade to start with on each particular job and how many different grades will be needed to do the job most efficiently. Don't be afraid to experiment with different sanding techniques and different types of blocks. You'll learn a lot of new tricks -- perhaps the very one you'll need to help solve your next problem.

Sanding with power sanders: Almost any commercial power sander can be used to work Acrylic sheet. Naturally, different types of sanders are preferred for different operations. As a basic rule, use them as you do when sanding wood. They should, however, be operated with lower pressure, and at slower speeds. Experiment on scrap pieces. All wet- or-dry machine sanding should be done wet especially with grit sizes of 150 or finer.

POLISHING: The original high luster of Acrylic sheet can be restored to the edges and surfaces by polishing with a power driven buffer. It is quite possible to polish Acrylic sheet by hand using a soft cloth and a very fine abrasive. But hand buffing is an extremely tedious process. You're likely to get a sore arm long before you get a finely polished surface. Power-driven buffing tools are recommended almost without exception. Because inexpensive buffing wheels are available as an attachment for any electric drill, equipment should not be a problem.
A good buffing wheel for Acrylic sheet will consist of layers of 3/16" carbonized felt or layers of unbleached muslin laid together to form a wheel between 1 and 3 inches thick. The larger the wheel, the better. Caution: Don't use one too large for your equipment. The wheel should reach a surface speed of at least 1200 feet per minute. Speeds up to 4000 feet per minute are useful for acrylics. Solidly stitched wheels with rows of concentric stitching should be avoided. They are often too hard and may burn the acrylic. Never use a wheel that has been used to polish metal. Traces of the metal may remain to scratch the Acrylic sheet. Acrylic sheet should be polished using a commercial buffing compound of the type used for polishing softer metals such as silver or brass. Or you can use a non-silicone car polish that has no cleaning solvents in it. First, however, tallow should be applied to the wheel as a base for the buffing compound. Just touch the tallow stick to the spinning wheel. Then, quickly apply buffing compound. To polish, move the piece back and forth across the wheel until you get a smooth, even polish. Be careful not to apply too much pressure. Keeping the work constantly moving across the wheel will help prevent heat buildup which can mar the surface by burning or smearing. It also prevents overheating that will later develop into stress craze. For safety reasons, it is important not to start polishing near the top of the sheet. The wheel may easily catch the top edge, tearing the piece of Acrylic sheet out of your hands and throwing it across the room . . . or at you. Always wear safety glasses and be extremely careful. Begin polishing approximately one-third of the way down the sheet, and keep moving it back and forth until you've reached the bottom edge. Then turn the sheet around and repeat the process on the other half.

FORMING: When heated above 275"F Acrylic sheet becomes soft and pliable, almost like a sheet of flexible rubber. It may then be formed into almost any shape. As the sheet cools, it hardens and retains the formed shape, provided it has been held in place during the cooling process. Do not exceed 360° F for more than one hour. Excessively high temperatures may cause the sheets to blister and burn. Never heat Acrylic sheet in a kitchen oven. Acrylic sheet gives off highly flammable fumes when decomposed by overheating. These gases are potentially explosive if allowed to collect in an unventilated area. Most kitchen ovens do not have accurate temperature controls. Temperatures can be off as much as 75°, possibly allowing the acrylic to overheat. Because air is not forcibly circulated in a standard kitchen oven, the fumes will accumulate. When they come into contact with the heat source there is likely to be an explosion. Repeat: Do not heat acrylic in a kitchen oven.

FORMING WITH A STRIP HEATER: A strip heater is the most useful acrylic-forming device in the home craftsman's arsenal. Used properly, it is perfectly safe. A correctly assembled strip heater will not exceed safe heat. Unfortunately, a strip heater can only be used to form straight-line bends. It will allow you to make those bends with a minimum of trouble -- and a minimum of electricity.
A strip heater heats only the area to be formed -- there's no need to heat the entire sheet if you only intend to make a straightline bend. It heats quickly. And with a little care you'll get excellent results, because the rest of the piece stays cool. Heating and forming Acrylic sheet with a strip heater is not difficult. When properly heated, the acrylic may be easily bent into smooth, clean corners. With patience and a little practice you will achieve excellent results. First, remove the masking paper from the line of the bend. The rest of the mashing paper should be left in place to protect the unheated area. Then, lay the sheet on the heater with the bend line directly above the exposed heating element so that the bend will be made away from the heated side. The length of heating time will vary according to the thickness of the sheet. Acrylic sheet thicker than 3/16" should be heated on both sides for a proper bend. Heat the sheet until it begins to sag at the bend line. Don't try to bend the sheet before it is fully heated, or after it has partially cooled. This will result in irregular and creased corners and high internal stress. Heat the bend line very carefully. Uneven heating can cause bowing along the line of the bend. Sometimes this is difficult to avoid -- especially with pieces over 24" long. Bowing can be minimized, however, by holding the just-formed material in a clamp or jig until it has cooled. Forming jigs and clamps should be used for best results. They can be very simply made of wood and used over and over. Make preformed jigs for certain angles or even special shapes for individual projects. Variable angle jigs can be made with two pieces of wood hinged together and held at the desired angle with a variable brace. Felt, flannel, or flocked rubber should be used to line any surfaces that may come into contact with the heated acrylic. Wear heavy cotton gloves when handling heated Acrylic sheet. They'll protect your hands, as well as the sheet.

OTHER FORMING TECHNIQUES: Acrylic sheet may be formed into almost any shape. But specialized heating and forming equipment is usually required for all but the simplest projects. And while many of the forms and jigs required for two and three dimensional forming can be easily made out of wood in the home shop, such projects are beyond the scope of this document. However, many excellent books are available covering all types of acrylics forming. They deal with techniques such as drape forming, plug and ring forming, surface molding, blow and vacuum forming, and even design, construction, and use of ovens for heating acrylic sheet.

JOINING: Except for certain specialty acrylics, Acrylic sheet can be joined with solvent cements to form strong, durable, transparent joints. But the ultimate strength and appearance of your joints will depend on how carefully you make them. Getting really good joints requires a lot of care and considerable skill. Practice on scrap pieces. The more experience you have, the better your work will be.

Precautions to observe when working with acrylic solvents:
* Always work in a well-ventilated area.
* Do not smoke -- solvents are highly volatile and may be flammable.
* Protect skin from contact with cement and solvents.
* Do not attempt to cement Acrylic sheet in temperatures under 60° F. Temperatures from 70" to 75"F are ideal.
* Always follow the cement manufacturer's recommendations.

PREPARATION OF THE JOINT:
All surfaces that are to be joined should fit together accurately without having to be forced. Flat, straight surfaces are easiest to work with. Any area that is part of the original surface of the sheet should be left untouched. A smooth cut made with a cooled power saw also should be left alone. These surfaces need no additional preparation. But if the area to be joined has a saw cut that is rough, it should be wet sanded or finished with a joiner or shaper to get a perfectly flat, square edge. Do not polish edges that are to be cemented. Polishing leaves a convex edge with rounded corners. It will make a very poor joint. Always remove the masking material from around the area to bejoined.
Acrylic Poly 76 and Poly 84 require two-part polymerizable cements.

CAPILLARY CEMENTING:
Capillary cementing is probably the most popular method of joining Acrylic sheet. It works because of the ability of a low-viscosity solvent-type cement to flow through a joint area by capillary action. Properly done, it yields strong, perfectly transparent joints. But capillary cementing won't work at all if the parts do not fit together perfectly.
First make sure the parts fit together properly. Then join the pieces together with masking tape. Or clamp them to a form that will support the pieces and hold them firmly in place. It is important that the joint be kept in a horizontal plane, or the cement will run out of the joint. Apply the cement carefully along the entire joint, using a hypodermic needle. Apply it from the inside edge, whenever possible on a box-corner type joint, and from both sides, if possible, on a flat piece.
If the cement does not flow completely into the joint, try tilting the vertical piece very slightly (about 1") towards the outside. This should allow the solvent to flow freely into the entire joint. Always let the joint dry thoroughly before removing tape or clamps. Maximum bond strength will not be reached for 24 to 48 hours.

DIP OR SOAK CEMENTING: This method of cementing Acrylic sheet involves dipping the edge of one of the pieces to be joined directly into the solvent. It is very important that only the very edge be dipped. Exposing too much area to the solvent will result in a weak, slow-setting point. You'll need a shallow tray in which to dip the acrylic. The tray can be made of aluminum, stainless steel, galvanized steel, or glass. Do not use plastic, the solvent may dissolve it.
Place short pieces of wire, pins, or brads into the tray to keep the edge of the Acrylic acrylic sheet from touching the bottom of the tray. The tray must be almost perfectly level. Pour solvent cement into the tray so that it just covers all the brads and covers them evenly. Now, carefully place the edge to be cemented into the tray so that it rests on the brads. You can hold the piece upright by hand, but it is better to use some kind of support to hold the piece in place while it soaks. A couple of padded clamps attached to the sheet, and resting on the edge of the tray are fine. Heavy pieces of wood placed against each side of the sheet will also work. Slotted wooden supports are usually used for production work, but anything that will hold the piece firmly upright is sufficient.
The Acrylic sheet should be left in the solvent from 1 to 2 minutes, depending on the thickness of the sheet, the type of solvent used, and the bond strength required. Soaking time should be long enough to allow the edge of the sheet to swell into a "cushion" As soon as an adequate cushion is formed, the piece must be removed. Hold it for a few seconds at a slight angle to allow the excess solvent to drain off. Then carefully, but quickly, place the soaked edge precisely into place on the other part to be joined. Hold the parts together for about 30 seconds without applying any pressure. This will allow the solvent to work on the surface of the other piece. After 30 seconds you can apply some pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles. But be very careful not to squeeze out the cement. When the pieces are joined, the part should be placed in a jig or clamp to maintain firm contact for 10 to 30 minutes. Do not allow the parts to move during this critical time. Allow the joint to set for another 8 to 24 hours before doing any further work on it.

VISCOUS CEMENTING: Viscous cements are used to cement joints that can't be easily cemented by capillary or soak solvent methods -- either because they are difficult to reach, or because the parts don't fit properly together. Viscous cement is thick. It will fill small gaps, and can make strong, transparent joints where solvent cements can't. Let the solution stand overnight. Remove the masking material from around the joint area, and carefully apply a small bead of cement to one side of the joint. Then gently join the pieces as described under "Soak Cementing" Masking tape may be applied to protect the area around the joint. But it should be removed carefully after about 5 minutes, while the cement is still wet. Don't touch the parts at all for the first critical 3 minutes, or the joint will not hold. The part may be carefully moved after 10 minutes, but don't do any additional work on it for 12 to 24 hours.

POLYMERIZABLE CEMENTING: Superior joints are achieved using polymerizable, or "two part" cements. These cements must be mixed prior to use and must be used immediately, as they "set up", or harden. Instructions on the use of these cements may vary from manufacturer.

GLAZING: Acrylic sheet is lighter, more transparent, and far more break resistant than glass. Thus glazing with Acrylic sheet is safe and easy. Important: Acrylic acrylic sheet expands and contracts at a much greater rate than glass. To compensate, remember to allow approximately 1/16" per running foot shorter than your frame size. The sheet thickness you need depends on the size of your window. For windows smaller than 24", use an elastic glazing compound which is compatible with acrylic sheet. For windows over 24': it is important that you select the proper rabbet depth to allow for expansion and contraction.
Sheetsize--------------Rabbet depth
Up to 24" x 36"--------1/2 to 5/8"
Up to 36" x 48"--------5/8 to 3/4"
Up to 48" x 72"--------3/4" to 1"
Use a continuous removable stop, and caulk with a polysulfide sealant or butyl tape. If it is necessary to bolt a small panel to a frame, drill mounting holes larger than the diameter of the bolts or screws. Use round-head screws with rubber washers against the Acrylic sheet and stainless steel washers against the screw head. After tightening, back off 1/2" turn. Do not use counter-sunk, flat-head screws. They will fracture the acrylic sheet.

FIRE PRECAUTIONS: Acrylic sheet should be protected from flames and high heat because it is a combustible material. This thermoplastic usually burns rapidly to completion if not extinguished. The products of combustion are carbon dioxide and water if sufficient air is present. If not, toxic carbon monoxide will be formed. Users should follow building codes and exercise good judgment in the use of this material. Access panels may be required for evacuation of areas glazed with Acrylic sheet. The combustibility properties of Acrylic sheet can be described by the following - Self Ignition Temperature by ASTM D 1929 for Acrylic sheet is 860° F. Rate of burning 1/8" thickness as measured by ASTM D 635 is 1.0 inches per minute. Smoke density as measured by ASTM D 2843 is 3% to 15%. While this text data is based on small-scale laboratory tests frequently referenced in various building codes, these tests do not duplicate actual fire conditions.

Polyvinylidene Fluoride:(PVDF) is a high molecular weight thermoplastic polymer with excellent chemical inertness. It is highly resistant to oxidizing agents and halogens and is almost completely resistant to allphatic, aromatics, alcohols, acids and chlorinated solvents. It is resistant to most acids and bases.

PROPERTIES: Mechanically strong. High dielectric strength. Thermally stable. Resistant to low temperatures. Stable to ultraviolet and extreme weather conditions. Self-extinguishing and non-toxic.

(PVDF) combines typical fluoropolymer properties with the mechanical properties of more rigid thermoplastics.
Other properties include non-toxicity, high purity, a high heat-deflection temperature, and UV and gamma radiation resistance.
(PVDF) is used in semiconductor processing, chemical processing and heat exchangers.

Polycarbonate is a tough, dimensionally stable, transparent thermoplastic that has many applications which demand high performance properties. This versatile thermoplastic maintains its properties over a wide range of temperatures, from -40"F to 280"F. It is available in three types: machine grade; window and glass-filled. It is the highest impact of any Thermoplastic, transparent up to 2" in special grades, outstanding dimensional and thermal stability, exceptional machineability, stain resistant and non-toxic with low water absorption.

Machine Grade is relatively stress free to permit the most demanding machining. It is also available in glass-filled. This polycarbonate is perfect for high performance uses in tough applications over a broad temperature range.

Window Grade is optically clear, providing total luminous transmittance and very low haze factor. The high impact strength makes it resistant to repeated blows, shattering and spalling.

Glass-reinforced polycarbonate is finding principal applications in designs where metals, particularly die-cast aluminum and zinc, are commonly used. The coefficient of thermal expansion is reduced by nearly 75%, thus equaling that of some metals. While glass-reinforced has less impact strength than standard grades, it is still tougher and more impact resistant than most other plastics and die cast aluminum.

Impact strength: Unnotched polycarbonate is virtually unbreakable, making it extremely safe in areas where parts may be exposed to impact. When exposed to repeated heavy blow, the material tends to cold form rather than shatter.

Electrical: Polycarbonate is excellent for electrical applications, because of its high dielectric strength and high volume resistivity which decreases only slightly as temperature or humidity is increased.

Machineability: Parts can be easily machined from standard metal working tools. No special tools are needed, and finished parts can be polished to a high gloss. Water or water-soluble cutting oils should be used when machining polycarbonate, since some standard cutting oils will attack the material. Polycarbonate can be machined on standard metalworking or woodworking equipment. Its unique properties permit it to be machined without chipping, splitting, or breaking.

Annealing: Polycarbonate slab (Zelux) has been stressed relieved using Liquo-Temp annealing process. In some instances where extensive machining is required, a secondary annealing of semi-finished parts is highly recommended. Secondary annealing can be accomplished by heating parts at 250"F in a desiccated air circulating oven for one hour per one inch of thickness. After heating, the oven should be turned off and allowed to cool to room temperature spontaneously.

Bonding: Polycarbonate can be mechanically bonded by standard methods. It can also be cemented by using a solvent such as methylene chloride or adhesives such as epoxy, urethane and silicone. Polycarbonate can also be ultrasonically or vibrationally welded.

Removing paint or other materials: Fresh paint may be removed by rubbing lightly with a cleaning material such as isopropyl alcohol, or VM-P grade naptha. Then the sheet should be washed immediately with a mild soap or detergent in warm water, and rinsed thoroughly with clean water. Grease and glazing compound may similarly be removed from the surface with the above mentioned cleaning materials. Weathered paint may be lifted off the sheet with masking tape. Razor blades or other sharp scraping tools should never be used.

Formability: Standard polycarbonate sheet is not heat formable; however, formable sheet is available on a custom basis. Standard Lexan® polycarbonate sheet can be heat formed with proper pre-drying. Lexan® sheets up to 114" may also be cold formed under special conditions.

Cleaning: Mild soap and water may be used. Products such as abrasive or highly alkaline cleaners, acetone, carbon tetrachloride, benzene or leaded gasoline should not be used, and the sheet should not be cleaned in hot sun or at high temperatures.

Decorating: Polycarbonate products will accept painting, printing, or vacuum metalizing as decorating methods.

UV Stabilization: Natural and black machine grade and window grade are UV stabilized. Polycarbonate rod, machine grade, are not UV stabilized, but is available on custom quotation.

APPLICATIONS: Lenses, high temperature and pressure windows, face shields industrial equipment and housing components, medical equipment components, instrument components, electrical insulators and connectors, aircraft & missile components, portholes in pressure chambers, jet pump impellers and diffusers, automotive parts, card guides and assembly line cogs.

MATERIAL GRADES:
Machine Grade (not recommended for "see-through" applications).
Clear or Black
Unmodified - 3/8" to 6" thick
Glass-Filled* - 1/8" to 4" thick
49" x 97" sheet up to 2" thick

Window Grade (recommended for "see-through" applications).
Unmodified -.112" to 2" thick
Glass-filled - not available
49" x 97" sheet up to 2" thick

Custom Sheet
Flame retardant
FDA/Medical grade polycarbonate is approved for contact with wet and dry food applications.
Premium optical grade sheet

POLYETHYLENE: Polyethylene is used more than any other thermoplastic polymer. There is a wide variety of grades and formulations available that have an equally wide range of properties. In general, the outstanding characteristics of polyethylene are toughness, ease of processing, chemical resistance, abrasion resistance, electrical properties, impact resistance, low coefficient of friction
and near-zero moisture absorption

LOW DENSITY POLYETHYLENE (LDPE): LDPE, was the first of the polyethylenes to be developed. It is a corrosion resistant, low density extruded material that provides low moisture permeability. LDPE has a fairly low working temperature, soft surface and low tensile strength. It is an excellent material where corrosion resistance is an important factor, but stiffness, high temperature and structural strength are not important considerations.

Features: Lightweight, Formable, Impact Resistant, Excellent Electrical Properties, Machineable and Weldability.

Fabrication: LDPE can be fabricated using the following techniques.
Hot gas welded, fusion and butt welded, ultra-sonic sealed, die cut, machined with wood or metal working tools, vacuum formed and thermo-formed.

Applications: Chemical resistant tanks and containers, food storage containers, laboratory equipment, disposable thermo-formed products, corrosion resistant work surfaces, vacuum formed end caps and tops and moisture barriers.

HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE (HPDE): HPDE is more rigid and harder than lower density materials. It also has a higher tensile strength, four times that of low density polyethylene, and it is three times better in compressive strength. HDPE meets FDA requirements for direct food contact applications. It also is accepted by USDA, NSF and the Canadian Department of Agriculture.

Features: Abrasion Resistant. The extremely high molecular weight of HDPE combined with its very low coefficient of friction provides and excellent abrasion resistant product preventing gouging, scuffing and scraping.

Exceptional Impact Strength: HDPE is one of the highest impact resistant thermoplastics available and maintains excellent machineability and self- lubricating characteristics. Properties are maintained even at extremely low temperatures.

Chemical Resistant: HDPE has very good chemical resistance of corrosives as well as stress cracking resistance (with the exception of strong oxidizing acids at elevated temperatures). Certain hydrocarbons cause only a light surface swelling at moderate temperature.

Water Resistant: Moisture and water (including saltwater) have no affect on HDPE. It can be used in fresh and salt water immersion applications.

Fabrication: HDPE can be fabricated using the following techniques:
Hot gas welded, fusion and butt welded, ultra-sonic sealed, die cut, machined with wood or metal working tools, vacuum formed and thermo-formed.

HIGH DENSITY POLYETHYLENE (HDPE) APPLICATIONS:
Food cutting boards, corrosion resistant wall coverings, pipe flanges, lavatory partitions, man-hole covers in chemical plants, radiation shielding, self supporting containers, and prosthetic devices.

Marine Grade: Seaboard is ultraviolet stabilized. Seaboard meets all of the requirements of the Food and Drug Administration regulation 21 CFR 177.1520 for articles intended for use in direct contact with foodstuffs. Physical properties of plastic sheeting are represented as "Typical." Information contained herein is considered accurate to the best of our acceptances. Conditions and methods of use may vary and are beyond our control, therefore, we disclaim any liability incurred as a result of the use of this product. No information herein shall be construed as an offer of indemnity for infringement or as a recommendation to use the products in such a manner as to infringe any patent, domestic or foreign. The "Typical" properties of our plastic sheet cannot be automatically used when engineering finished components, the end user is responsible for insuring the suitability of our products for their specific application or end use! Similar products include Marine Grade, Cellular Marine Grade, Starboard, Seaboard, MarineTuff, Kingboard, and Starlite.

POLYPROPYLENE: Polypropylene possesses excellent resistance to organic solvents, degreasing agents and electrolytic attack. It has a lower impact strength, but it's working temperatures and tensile strength are superior to low or high density polyethylene. It is light in weight, resistant to staining, and has a low moisture absorption rate. This is a tough, heat-resistant, semi-rigid material, ideal for the transfer of hot liquids or gases. It is recommended for vacuum systems and where higher heats and pressures are encountered. It has excellent resistance to acids and alkalis, but poor aromatic, aliphatic and chlorinated solvent resistance.

Polypropylene is an economical material that offers a combination of outstanding physical, chemical, mechanical, thermal and electrical properties not found in any other thermoplastic. Compared to low or high density polyethylene, it has a lower impact strength, but superior working temperature and tensile strength.

Features: Lightweight, high tensile strength, Impact resistant, high compressive strength, excellent dielectric properties, resists most alkalis and acids, resists stress cracking, retains stiffness and flexibility, low moisture absorption, non-toxic, non-staining, easily fabricated and high heat resistance.

Fabrication: Polypropylene can be easily fabricated using the following techniques. Hot gas welded, spin welded, fusion & butt welded, machined with wood or metal working tools, vacuum formed and Ultra-sonic sealed.

Thermo-formed Applications: Chemical resistant tanks & linings, laboratory consoles, sinks & ducts, plating barrels & tanks, lavatory partitions, filter press plates, railroad crossing components, pump components & housings, prosthetic devices, die cutting pads and clean room walls, floors & ceilings.

POLYSTYRENE: Polystyrene is clear, easily colored, and has good resistance to acids and bases. The repeat unit of polystyrene is -CH2-CH-C6H5-. C6H5, a phenyl group, is a benzene ring with one hydrogen atom removed.

Polystyrene is available in many forms. General-purpose polystryrene is polystyrene which either has no additives or addities other than rubbers or copolymers. It is a brittle, transparent material with a smooth surface finish that can be printed on. It is used for injection-molding containers for cosmetics, boxes and ballpoint pen barrels. Toughened or high-impact polystyrene is a blend of polystyrene with rubber particles. This blending improves the impact resistance but results in a decrease in tensile modulus, tensile strength and transparency. This blend of polystyrene is used to produce cups for vending machines and casings for cameras, projectors, radios, television sets and vacuum cleaners. Polystyrene are attacked by many solvents such as dry cleaning agents, greases, oxidizing acids and some oils. Detergents can lead to stress-cracking.

TEFLON® (TETRAFLUOROETHYLENE RESIN): TEFLON® is a registered trademark of the Du Pont Company for its fluoropolymer resins. TEFLON® PTFE fluoropolymer resins are part of the Du Pont family of fluorine-based products which also includes TEFLON® FEP and TEFLON® PFA fluoropolymer resins, and TEFZEL® fluoropolymers. These materials can be used to make a variety of articles having a combination of mechanical, electrical, chemical, temperature and friction-resisting properties unmatched by articles made of any other material. Commercial use of these and other valuable properties combined in one material has established TEFLON® resins as outstanding engineering materials for use in many industrial and military applications. TEFLON® resins may also be compounded with fillers or reinforcing agents to modify their performance in use.

TEFLON® PTFE fluoropolymer resins are tetrafluoroethylene polymers, usually fabricated by cold forming and sintering techniques. TEFLON® PTFE resins have a continuous service temperature of 260°C (500°F). Much higher temperatures can be satisfactorily sustained for shorter exposures.

TEFLON® provides exceptional chemical, electrical, mechanical and thermal properties for a multitude of applications. It has one of the lowest dielectric constants and dissipation factors of any solid material. TEFLON® is almost totally unaffected by the chemicals usually encountered in commercial use.

ADVANTAGES OF TEFLON®: Excellent electrical properties, Heat resistance, TEFLON® is capable of continuous service at 500"F, Toughness and flexibility, Chemical inertness, Low coefficient of friction, Zero moisture absorption, Weather resistance, TEFLON® is completely unaffected by outdoor weathering.

APPLICATIONS: Food processing, electrical parts, coaxial cable connectors, terminal insulators, transformers, relays, medical industry, washers, gaskets, flanges, valve components, pump, components, baffles, seals, bearings, rings, bushings and high heat applications.

FORMS AVAILABLE: Sheets, Rods, Tubes, Heavy wall tubing, Film, Rectangular bar and Pressure sensitive tape

Cements:
IPS WELD-ON INDUSTRIAL ADHESIVES AND CEMENTS
General Safety, Storage and Handling Information

Dear IPS Weld-On User:
Thank you for selecting one of our many quality products. We believe you have made a wise choice and want to assist you in using our products in a safe, healthy and proper manner. Please follow ALL safety and application instructions carefully.

Weld-On Industrial Adhesives and Cements have been sold throughout many parts of the world for several decades. Experience has shown, that when stored and handled properly, and when used according to our instructions and reasonable safety practices, our products are safe and effective for their intended use.

Each person using our products must accept responsibility for their own safety and health and should follow a "common sense" approach. Before using these products, we recommend the following:

Read the label on the container, the product bulletin and the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) before use.

Use proper safety equipment and protective clothing. Safety glasses and protective gloves should be worn.

Work only in a well ventilated area with vapor levels below the accepted TLV given in the MSDS. Avoid breathing of vapors. Avoid working in confined areas. If you must work in a confined or poorly ventilated area, use an approved positive pressure self-contained breathing apparatus or an air purifying respirator, as is designated in the MSDS. If you feel dizzy, nauseous, or develop headaches, leave the area and report your condition to proper line management.

Don't expose yourself or others who are known to be hyper-sensitive to any type of chemical vapor.

Know where emergency exits and eyewash stations are located nearest to your work area.

Report all unsafe conditions and procedures to your supervisor or to the person on the job responsible for job site safety for corrective action.

REMEMBER TO USE COMMON SENSE AND TAKE RESPONSIBILITY FOR YOUR OWN SAFETY AND HEALTH WHILE ON THE JOB!

WELD-ON PART # 3
CLEAR, WATER THIN, VERY FAST CURING SOLVENT CEMENT FOR JOINING ACRYLIC

Parts to be joined should fit without forcing and be clean. Apply cement with brush, syringe or eyedropper. Assemble while parts are still wet. If cement is applied to one surface, let the two surfaces be in gentle contact for a few seconds to allow the cement to soften the dry surface, then press parts together in firm contact.

For capillary method, parts are placed lightly together and cement is applied to the edge of the joint with brush, eyedropper or syringe. By capillary action the cement will flow a considerable distance between two such surfaces. Allow a few seconds for the cement to soften the surfaces. Press parts firmly together.

For soak method, dip one or both surfaces until it is soft (approximately 2 to 5 minutes) then join them firmly.

Initial bond forms very quickly. Bond strength continues to develop very rapidly, reaching high strength in 24 to 48 hours. Thereafter, strength will continue to increase gradually for some weeks.

In many cases, the cement dries too fast to apply by brush to the parts before they are joined.

Under certain circumstances, especially with high humidity, this cement may leave a white mark on the plastic (commonly called blushing). For a more blush resistant, but somewhat slower acrylic cement, we suggest you try Weld-On #4.
Weld-On #4 is the same as Weld-On #3 except it is MODERATELY FAST CURING.

This product is intended for use by skilled individuals at their own risk. Users should verify by tests that this product, as well as these methods, are suitable with the products being used in their application.

PROPOSITION 65 NOTICE: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer.

Capillary cementing is probably the most popular way of joining acrylic sheet. It works because of the ability of low-viscosity solvent-type cement to flow through a joint area by capillary action. Properly done, capillary cementing yields a strong, transparent joint.

First, make sure all parts fit together properly. Then join the pieces together with masking tape, or clamp them into a form that will support the pieces and hold them firmly in place.

Keep the joint in the horizontal plane or the cement will run out. Apply cement carefully along the length of the joint. To cement a box-corner-type joint, apply cement to the inside edge if possible. If you're cementing a joint not at an edge, apply the cement from both sides. Use our 1-1/4 ounce blunt needle-nosed applicator bottle for best results.

If the cement does not flow completely into the joint, tilt the vertical piece very slightly (about 1 degree) toward the outside. This should allow the solvent to flow freely into the entire joint. Then, tilt the piece back again for a square corner.

Let the joint dry thoroughly before removing tape or clamps. After a few seconds, the surface will be soft. If desired, apply small pressure of about lb/sq.in. (50-100 grams/sq.cm.).

The initial bond forms in five to ten seconds. Wait three hours before doing subsequent processing. High strength is reached in 24 to 48 hours; strength will continue to build for several weeks.

When using any solvent cement, work in a well ventilated area. Avoid breathing of vapor and contact of skin or eyes. In case of contact with eyes, flush with water. If swallowed, induce vomiting. Call physician immediately and transport to emergency facility.

ACRYLICS
Container Codes: MC=Metal Can, SC=Screw Cap, GB=Glass Bottle, MT=Metal Tube, PC=Plastic Container, OT=Open Top

PART #	PRODUCT DESCRIPTION	COLOR	SIZE	CONTAINER CODE
3	Non-Flammable. Water-thin, very fast set, solvent type for acrylics. Will also bond other plastics such as styrene, butyrate and polycarbonate to themselves.	CLEAR	GAL	MC, SC
			PT	MC, SC
			4 OZ.	MC, SC
4	Non-Flammable. Water-thin, slow set, solvent type. Also bonds other plastics, e.g., styrene, butyrate and polycarbonate to themselves.	CLEAR	GAL	MC, SC
			PT	MC, SC
			4 OZ.	MC, SC
5	Water-thin, slow set, solvent type. Especially for Plex, MC, Cyro FF, ICI and Perspex	CLEAR	GAL	GB, SC
			PT	GB, SC
16	Fast drying, high strength, bodied. Bonds acrylics to itself. Also for styrene, butyrate, polycarbonate and other plastics and porous surfaces.	CLEAR	GAL	MC, SC
			PT	MC, SC
			5 OZ.	MT
			1-1/2 OZ.	MT
1802	Medium syrup, medium set, bodied. For bonding acrylic to styrene, PVC, ABS, butyrate.	CLEAR	GAL	MC, SC
			PT	MC, SC
10	2-Part, high strength structural adhesive. High viscosity. Bonds PVC, acrylics, styrene, ABS, polycarbonates to steel, aluminum, etc.	WHITE	GAL	PC, SC
			PT	PC, SC
			4 OZ.	PC, SC
28	3-Part reactive, high strength. Good weatherability. Meets Mil Spec A-8576C Type II	CLEAR	GAL	PC, SC
			PT	PC, SC
			4 OZ.	PC, SC
40	2-Part reactive, high strength	CLEAR	GAL	PC, SC
			PT	PC, SC
			4 OZ.	PC, SC
3061	Thinner for 40A (Acrylic Monomer)	CLEAR	PT	MC, SC

IMPORTANT NOTICE: The information and statements herein are believed reliable but are not to be construed as a warranty or representation for which RM Plastics, Inc. assumes legal responsibility. Users should undertake sufficient verification and testing to determine the suitability for their own particular purpose of any information referred to within this document.

Note: The information contained on this page is general information only, contact the manufacturer of the product you are interested in for more or updated information.

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